100 Favorite Dishes: Lemon-ricotta doughnuts from Olivéa
No. 89: Lemon-ricotta doughnuts from Olivéa They were an afterthought, those doughnuts. After desecrating the headcheese, swelling my jowls with pork cheeks, emptying a plate of tortellini bobbing in a pancetta-scented broth and reducing the guilt with a crock of cauliflower, the doughnuts just sort of appeared…