The Conversation at Cucina Colore:

“Stop giving him pork chops!” The woman is hissing, eyes flashing, using her mom voice on her husband, one arm thrown protectively over the top of the car seat beside her on the banquette, two tables down from me. “I’m not giving him pork chops. I’m giving him pieces from…

From Black Hole to Pretty People

Despite the much vaunted pooch-walking service, there wasn’t a pet in sight at French 250, which hosted an opening party last night. But with plenty of pretty people pouring in and bottles of champagne pouring out, it doesn’t look like this restaurant will be going to the dogs anytime soon…

Addicted to Dunkin’ Donuts

I have good news for everyone who’s been bugging me since I mentioned back in March that Dunkin’ Donuts had signed a deal that would put its excellent coffee into retail locations across the country. Finally, Dunkin’ Donuts coffee is available at Colorado Rite Aid locations…

Fishing for Compliments

On September 5, assorted chefs from the Oceanaire Seafood Room restaurants will offer up the Ultimate Seafood Experience at the James Beard House in New York City – and Matt Mine, chef at Denver’s Oceanaire that opened just a month ago at 1400 Arapahoe Street, will be among them. On…

The Brunch Bunch

Rise and shine, hipsters! Two of Denver’s finest bar/pub hangouts are now serving brunch. Sputnik — located at 3 South Broadway next to the hi-dive — has been serving up brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays for about a month now, and offers a nice,…

Cebiche

Lomo saltado. Hot empanadas and a sweating bottle of Cristal or Quilmes beer. Chupes de this and chupes de that, a small plate of ceviche classico or ceviche mixto and then, of course, the ubiquitous papas a la huancaina that I love even more than the backyard, church picnic-style potato…

Sour Limon

Although Denver has several Peruvian restaurants, it has only one Limon — the recently expanded spot at 1618 East 17th Avenue where chef/owner Alex Gurevich’s menu runs more toward the hyper-modern than the traditional, with cuisine rooted in modern Andean- and urban Lima-style cooking. Still, it retains the soul of…

Welcome Inn

With the exception of especially festive nights, when I do shots, or sushi outings, when sake is just what’s happening, I pretty much drink beer. There are a number of reasons for this, a major one being that I’m lousy at pacing myself. What I mean is, if there’s an…

Especial Margarita

I hate working out, and I hate people who say how much they love working out. To me, working out is a necessary evil — like taxes, dating and menstrual cycles. So when I heard there was a gym called the Anti-Gym, I got excited: I thought working out there…

Arada

When I reviewed Arada last summer (“Stranger in a Strange Land,” June 29, 2006), Ethiopian food was still new to me. Somehow, I’d managed to miss this incredible, uncorrupted African mother cuisine for years — even here in Denver, where African cuisines in general have established a foothold far more…

Cedric the Vodka Drinker

I don’t know why seeing Cedric the Entertainer would make you want to drink vodka, but clearly the people who sell Ceren Vodka think it’s a great idea, because Cedric was at the Ceren launch party at the Mile High Station last week. When I asked Cedric for his favorite…

Art Bucks for Booze

While art galleries keep looking for loopholes in the state liquor laws that would allow them to serve alcohol during openings, one bar has already come up with a solution. The Highland Tavern, located at 3400 Navajo Street, is passing out Art Bucks good for a dollar off your tab…

Sound Bites: Udi’s Bread Café

The Stapleton neighborhood just got a new place where you can grab a quick bite for breakfast. Udi’s Bread Café (7357 East 29th Avenue, 303-329-8888) — already revered for dishing up some of the neighborhood’s best dinner and weekend brunch entrees — began serving up a pared-down weekday breakfast menu…

Ceviche, and More Raw Data

I am spoiled. Most culinary adventurers would be happy to find one Peruvian restaurant in a town this size, but Denver has several, with more coming all the time. Early this year, Cebiche opened in the space once occupied by El Chalan, a Peruvian restaurant that pioneered this neighborhood more…

Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace

A few months ago, the awkwardly named Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace rose up, phoenix-like, from the ashes of La Rhumba — Dave Query’s failed attempt at Caribbean-Asian fusion, a place I loathed with a fine, hot passion — and further fortified the multi-unit owner’s entrenchment on this hard-fought…

The Next Danny Meyer?

I’d like to offer both a stern warning for those who might be headed out to Centro Latin Kitchen & Refreshment Palace (see review) and a helpful bit of advice for those who refuse to heed it: At Centro, the bar mixes a caipirihna that could strip paint. The bartenders…

Forest Room 5

It’s almost 9 p.m. when I hear Jesse call my battle name, Drewstroyer, from across the room. Immediately feeling sick to my stomach with first-time anxiety, I set down my second can of Olympia and wade through the crowd of fifty or so competitors and spectators. As I take a…

Frozen Strawberry Margarita

While many people remember their first kiss, I remember the first bar where I ever ordered a beer. Back when I was far too young to drink — legally — my high school gang would spend hours on the Emerald Isle patio overlooking the Cherry Creek Reservoir, our bodies slathered…

Aqua

Just two months after I gave Aqua a thorough literary ass-kicking, it already deserves a second shot. Chef Duy Pham (late of Kyoto and, years back, Jay Chadron’s other restaurant, Opal) recently signed on to take the reins at this eatery that, several revisions ago, was based on his concept…

The Centro of Colorado Cuisine

Like beer, like ice cream, like truffles, the pig is proof on the hoof — evidence that the food gods love us and want us to be happy. And the masa cake on the menu at Centro is proof (to me, anyway) that not only is Dave Query in league…

Tacos y Salsas

My cell phone rang around one in the morning. For most people, this would be a harbinger of bad news — kid in jail, someone in the hospital. For me, it almost always means work: a debriefing, a confession, an eleventh-hour emergency like a restaurant on fire or, worse, dead…

Next!

One of the defining characteristics of a meal at Sushi Den (1487 South Pearl Street) has always been the wait. A half hour, an hour. On busy nights, the wait for dinner can take longer than the dinner itself. I’ve been forced to sit on my hands for as long…