On the floor at Chutney’s, manager Subash Shetty moves silently from table to table, filling gaps in service left by his waiters and waitresses. He takes drink orders. He answers questions the servers can’t — how to pronounce tikka-e-noorjahani and which is spicier, the Peshawari chicken or the chicken Chettinad…
In last week’s Bite Me, I talked about Sushi Moon (6585 Greenwood Plaza Boulevard, Greenwood Village) and the troubles that operators Jessie Son and Young Joe Kwon were having finding their place in the already well-defined niche of pan-Asian fine dining. They’d recently lost a chef and were looking for…
It’s never been about slumming. Or kitsch. Or camp. No, Barbara Middlebrook drinks at the Ace-Hi Tavern — a dive bar right down to its shag carpet and cash-only policy — for the same reason that she looks forward to walks down Main Street during breaks from her job at…
Fear of flying. There are a few places in town I’ve always wanted to try, but they don’t seem like the kind of spot a woman should visit alone. And so every time I drove past the Piper Inn, I felt like I’d had my wings clipped. I’d been driving…
Chutney’s and its chef, Ravi Chandra, present a view of Indian cuisine that’s somewhat above and to the left of the norm — but they’re not alone. The Royal Peacock, which opened in Boulder back in 1983, has always offered Indian food that took its inspiration not from the classical…
This week Jason Sheehan reviews Chutney’s. Photo by Mark Manger. A few years ago, while working in Albuquerque, I made one dumbass move that almost accidentally ended my cooking career — a full three or four months before I ended it quite deliberately on my own. It was a Tuesday…
I remember deciding, years ago, that sushi was the most perfect food on the planet. Bear in mind that this was long before I’d actually eaten my first piece of sushi. And that this was coming from a kid who’d grown up in a blue-collar neighborhood in a blue-collar city…
Last week, Alex Gurevich called to let me know that Limón, his killer Novoandino/Peruvian restaurant at 1618 East 17th Avenue (“Small Miracles,” February 8), is turning one on July 12. He and his guys are throwing a party — live music, drink specials all night, complimentary frittatas, that kind of…
Everybody has a really good first bar story. Often it’s a tale about a group celebrating somebody’s 21st birthday by seeing just how close people can get to death and still be fine the next morning. Sometimes it’s a saga about using a bad fake ID to sneak into the…
Wasted youth. When I first walked into Centro, the reconcepting of Cafe Rhumba by Dave Query (who also owns Lola, Jax, West End Tavern and Zolo), I immediately knew that I would like it. Even though the food at Rhumba was far from stellar, I always enjoyed the place: Query…
While Osaka Sushi (see review) might be the kind of place I wish were around when I was still a young, easily intimidated sushi eater, Domo is the kind of place I’m happy to have around now that I’m all growed up and know what I like. So what do…
I eat a lot, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone. It’s my job, after all, but sometimes even I am amazed at my rapacious capacity for putting on the feedbag. Like a couple of weeks ago, when I was down south with Laura eating pancakes — just a…
I’ve written some good menus in my time. Bouncing around as much as I did while wearing the whites, I got a lot of practice. Italian menus, French menus, tasting menus and complex, multi-course event menus inspired by things as ridiculous as Eastern European liquors and the birthday party of…
If you ask a real fisherman, he’ll tell you that walleye is one of the best eating fish. It’s not a particularly pretty fish, but it’s the reason that God made beer, beer batter and Shore Lunch. I’ve never been deep-sea fishing, but fighting a fish while you’re strapped into…
A change will do you good — and the changes taking place in Denver are amazing. Fifteen years ago, La Fiesta tried to expand from its weekday, lunch-only schedule into the evening hours, but it just didn’t work. Back then, the Curtis Park neighborhood was not even approaching a transitional…
Craig D’Alessandro of San Lorenzo Ristorante (see review) is not the only guy to come out of the Il Fornaio restaurant family and make a name for himself in the suburbs. Before he opened Venice in LoDo, before he opened the other Venice (which is just walking distance from San…
Carpaccio di bue dressed in lemon and oil, whole peppers stuffed with cheese and prosciutto, buffalo mozzarella with fresh tomatoes and roasted peppers draped with marinated Italian anchovies, grilled salmon with roasted potatoes and garretto d’agnello—spring lamb braised in red wine, served with grilled eggplant and potato puree. Laura touched…
Halfway up the mountain, it occurred to Laura and me that neither of us wanted jägerschnitzel. And it wasn’t just that we didn’t want German food. We really weren’t too crazy about each other at the moment. We’d been arguing all morning about this and that — a marital brushfire…
When word came down a couple of weeks ago that Leigh Sullivan, daughter of Jim Sullivan, was leaving her father’s eponymous restaurant group (which currently consists of Ocean, Nine75 and Oscar’s, and has almost as many shuttered concepts to its credit), I thought it was a little strange, but not…
There are many unanswered questions in this world. For example, why don’t heavier things fall faster? Why is there any debate about Ward Churchill’s job status? Why didn’t Sanjaya get voted off quicker? Why do I know the name Sanjaya? How do I stop my daughter from reaching puberty? Why…
I’ll trade you the T206 Honus Wagner for a crazy waiter. My friends and I trade bad waiter and waitress stories like baseball cards, and though I will always love Benny’s, the bad waiter stories are so plentiful here that they’re comparable to a no-name Rockies relief pitcher in the…
Everyone has annual traditions. There are the big ones, like Thanksgiving dinner with the family, opening presents on Christmas morning, falling asleep during the Super Bowl and getting smashed on New Year’s Eve. And then there are the smaller, more personal traditions. I have a lot of those. I try…
