Brunch banking: Brunch buffets are high-maintenance and, as a result, often low-flavor–quality ingredients such as real egg yolks and delicate cheeses don’t take kindly to the heat of Sterno cans and hours in chafing pans. (For a buffet that works, see the previous page for a review of Ellyngton’s at…
Some people don’t have the luxury of their own neighborhood joint–a warm, welcoming place that locals call home, with a bartender who knows everybody’s usual and all the good O.J. jokes. Then again, some people don’t want to encounter their neighbor in a social setting, especially if he’s the schmuck…
There goes the neighborhood: Even when the restaurant is as good as the Washington Park Grille or Mead St. Station (see review, previous page), some neighbors don’t care to send out the Welcome Wagon when a moving van pulls up and starts unloading an eatery in their vicinity. Two issues…
What’s the difference between an eleven-ounce, dry-aged, corn-fed, USDA Prime piece of beef at a big-name, nationally known restaurant and the same hunk of meat at a small, local steakhouse? Oh, about fifteen bucks. That, and such subtle nuances as these: At the homegrown joint, a spokesman doesn’t come out…
Meating the demand: A fixture in the Denver area for 38 years now, Emil-Lene’s Sirloin House, at 16000 Smith Road in Aurora, still steaks a claim on its USDA Prime sirloins (for more on steakhouses, see Cafe, previous page). Original owner Frank Emerling died in 1990, but long before that,…
Twenty-two inches of fresh powder and the sun shining like the caps of a ski instructor’s smile. After eight hours of carving turns and cruising for serious speed, the last thing I want to do is shell out $200 for a meal in a stuffy place where I might spot…
Losses, gains: The football season may be almost over, but in the restaurant business, nothing’s ever final. Add to the disabled list the original Ranelle’s, at 1313 East Sixth Avenue (the second location at 2390 South Downing closed several months ago). Owner Ranelle Gregory says she’s “bittersweet” about selling her…
Ever since Yankee Doodle stuck that feather somewhere and called it macaroni, this country has been in love with the noodle. What’s not to love? It goes with everything–dripping with butter, buried in cheese, smothered in any kind of sauce–and it’s cheap, filling and fast-cooking. Still, it wasn’t until last…
Scaled back: Soon after it opened last year, Cafe Iguana, at 300 Fillmore, shed much of its authentic Yucatan and Oaxacan fare in order to offer the sort of familiar Mexican food that Denverites could appreciate. But even that sacrifice of his original concept wasn’t enough to make Kevin Taylor’s…
People who have nothing better to do than track trends already have proclaimed fusion the fashionable food of ’96. Asian-influenced anything was the rage last year; fusion adds any and all types of cuisine to the melting pot. Not that fusion is really anything new–melding of, say, French and Asian…
A fish story: I never trusted supermarket seafood departments because too many questions went unanswered–like when the fish came in, how long it would stay at peak, or whether the snapper was from the Gulf or the Atlantic. But all of that changed when I met Carolyn Mason, seafood-department manager…
It may have been the Year of the Pig on the Chinese calendar, but in Denver, 1995 will go down as the Year of the Restaurant. Through official announcements, phone calls, word-of-mouth tips and simply stumbling into places, I counted no fewer than 67 new restaurants in the city alone…
We screeched to a halt in front of the Brown Palace Hotel in our luxury Toyota, two minutes late because the first movie we’d seen in a theater in sixteen months–yes, that’s how old our kid is; how’d you guess?–had 27 previews, 5 more than we’d counted on when we…
Attention, shoppers: It’s the eleventh hour, people. If you haven’t yet found that perfect gift for your foodie friends, you haven’t been looking. This year the sale of cookbooks and kitchen doodads has already passed all previous records (at least, that’s according to one Nebraska marketing company). If my credit-card…
Try to remember the last time the tuxedo-clad manager of a restaurant ran, actually ran, outside into the parking lot so that he could breathlessly call “Thanks again for coming, and drive safely” because he’d missed saying goodbye to you at the door. Can you recall arriving for dinner at…
Going to the dogs: Four out of five mutts surveyed in my neighborhood agree–the biscuits from Cosmo’s Dog Biscuit Bakery, at 1224 East Sixth Avenue, are better than your average puppy chow. The slightly insane-yet-ingenious business (named after a cat, by the way) is the brainchild of Laurin Wiltgen, who…
By now, even Americans raised on Spaghetti-Os know the infamous differences between Italy’s northern and southern cuisine–but that’s just the tip of the boot. In fact, anyone who’s been to fewer than half of the country’s twenty or so major regions can’t claim to be an expert on Italian food…
Dining, Italian-style: My discovery of Geppetto’s (see review this issue) helped fill the hollow left behind when a real class-act Italian restaurant, O Sole Mio, closed earlier this year. A group of Ethiopian restaurateurs has taken over the building at 5501 East Colfax Avenue. Now called Axum, the name of…
Heaven help us if someone does a study that shows eating dog food lowers cholesterol and helps us live healthier, longer lives. Within weeks Denver would be overrun by “poocherias,” and restaurants could get a leg up on the competition by offering the freshest, just-kibbled ingredients. All it took was…
Eat and be merry: Nothing works up an appetite quite like a day of Christmas shopping. Hey, the energy required to repeat “No, thanks, I’m just looking” a thousand times in three hours to salespeople haunted by the bonus checks of Christmas Past was enough to make me start munching…
Over the past year the neighborhood around Coors Field has exploded with new eateries. Now, with the baseball fans gone and a long, cold winter ahead, some of those restaurants are going to make lunchmeat of the competition. But until they do, people who work in LoDo have a smorgasboard…
An ugly day in the neighborhood: The employees at Chef Zorba’s Cuisine, at 2630 East 12th Avenue on Capitol Hill, say a year-old controversy is taking a toll on the restaurant–and that they’re paying the price. On two separate occasions in 1994, Zorba’s owner, Alex Pappas, applied for and was…
