With all the action just a few blocks away, the 16th Street Mall is starting to feel like it’s off the beaten path. Most of the restaurants along this stretch rely on lunch crowds to help them make it through the night, and some have redecorated or changed menus to…
Barrel of pork: The owner of House of Bunbuster, whose name I never was able to procure, phoned to say he was disgruntled over the category of “Best Pig’s Ears” in the 1995 Best of Denver. “I just think no one in Denver really cares about pig’s ears,” he said…
Longing to feel unwanted? Tryn walking into most restaurants with your kid in tow. Faster than you can say “high chair,” the place will put out the unwelcome mat. Assuming you stick around, you’ll be alternately ignored and stared at. When the waitpeople aren’t busy sighing by the side of…
The test of Colorado: A number of people have called to complain about the twelfth annual Taste of Colorado, held at Civic Center Park over the Labor Day weekend. Some think the group that sponsors the event, the Downtown Denver Partnership, was greedy in selling nine food tickets for $5–which…
This city’s mortality rate for Vietnamese restaurants is high, and any eatery that serves cheap, sloppily executed Vietnamese food has a better chance of stopping traffic on Federal Boulevard with a chopstick than it does of surviving. As soon as one restaurant closes, though, another seems to spring up faster…
The popularity of all types of Asian food has prompted some restaurants to offer more than one country’s cooking. Several of these “JVC” (Japanese, Vietnamese and Chinese) combo spots have opened here, particularly in the suburbs. One of the best I’ve found is Oriental Star, at 12203 East Iliff in…
Well, it seemed like a good idea at the time. When Kevin Taylor, chef and owner of one of the city’s few nationally known restaurants, Zenith American Grill, decided to open a second, more downscale eatery, he thought it would be a surefire hit to import the unique flavors of…
Spare changes: Denver continues to open more restaurants than it closes, and the chains are spreading faster than an infectious disease. The competition for customers–and ink–is fierce, particularly downtown, which is why it’s nice to find a success story like that of Bayou Bob’s. At the end of September the…
When my arteries start clogging up like Colorado Boulevard, Indian food is just what the doctor ordered. While some cuisines cancel out vegetables and rice with sugary sauces and fatty pork products and still call themselves healthy, this is the real thing: meats marinated in low-fat yogurt, lentil-thickened sauces and…
Movin’ on up: Robert Mancuso, the 26-year-old Olympic medal-winning chef who made the Normandy a contender again, has moved on. I heard that he’d hooked up with the swank Swiss Sonnenalp resort in Vail, but when I called to inquire as to Mancuso’s status, the Sonnenalp staff acted as though…
A restaurant doesn’t have to serve big, important food designed by a celebrity chef who wallpapers the dining room with his diploma from a Serious Cooking School in order for a meal to be worthwhile. Sometimes it’s enough that the food comes from someone who loves to cook and that…
A pizza the action: Of all the calls I get asking for restaurant recommendations, the majority involve pizza. People want to know where to get thin crust, thick crust, New York sloppy, Chicago deep-dish, Spago gourmet. Unfortunately, Denver is not the greatest place for pizza–I’ve tried every place I’ve heard…
In the mid-Eighties, stadiums began upgrading the food service at sporting events. It changed my life. Before that, baseball games were something to be tolerated. During the give-and-take years of dating, my presence at a game usually came as a tradeoff for an evening at an art-gallery opening. And on…
Covering all the bases: Coors Field is the first ballpark to feature its own in-house microbrewery, the Coors-owned Sandlot, but it won’t be the last. How many sports arenas across the country plan to put one in? “All of them,” says Richard Hesse, food-and-beverage director for Aramark Corporation, which runs…
My grandmother has a foolproof, color-coded formula for assembling a meal that balances all the basic food groups. It’s as simple as this: There has to be something orange, brown, red, green and white. If she’s serving steak (brown), then carrots (orange), noodles (white) and a salad of lettuce and…
Over the Barrel: Since Cracker Barrel cracked open its combination restaurant/country stores in Thornton and Colorado Springs in May, I’ve been bombarded with phone calls and letters from citizens who are boycotting the national chain. This quote from one writer pretty much sums up why: “We cannot allow a company…
We bring our family to a restaurant that bills itself as “family-style” and are promptly told to go to the bar with our child and wait thirty minutes, even though there are twenty empty tables within sight. When we are seated–thankfully only twenty minutes later–no one offers us a high…
The bested of Denver: Now that I’ve put a few weeks between myself and the June 28 Best of Denver issue, I can finally stomach thinking about all the food I consumed for it–and all the questions I received after it came out. For every restaurant that receives an award…
In one evening, we saw two biker chicks in leather bras, a gaggle of businessmen bearing briefcases, four polyester-clad women double-checking their just-done hair, and two families celebrating birthdays. All aboard for the Denver ChopHouse & Brewery. The Rock Bottom Restaurants corporation–which counts among its holdings five Rock Bottom Breweries…
Hello, Dolly: Without the wig, the makeup and the five-inch heels, Melissa Lee looks like any other pretty bartender, albeit an unusually well-endowed one. But when Lee, one of Denver’s best drink mixers, dons the fringed leather, the skintight pants and the ear-to-ear smile, she’s Dolly Parton–or close enough to…
Since the only thing lying between Denver and the deep blue sea is a two-hour plane trip, the notion that we can’t get fresh fish here doesn’t hold water. The fact is, we can get our hands on seafood in less time than it takes the average Los Angeleno to…
Try to come up with a more obvious recipe for disaster: I get an invitation to dine at the home of a woman who tells me that she and the entire “Filipino community” of Denver are upset over my recent review of the area’s only Filipino restaurant, Nipa Hut. The…
