So you want to open a restaurant? The recipe for success has gotten quite simple: pasta and whatever. The beauty of something made from flour and water and a little egg is that it goes with everything. Pasta with jalapenos! Pasta with 75 kinds of cheese! Pasta with a microbrew!…
A real fun guy: As a hired belly, I am no stranger to exotic and unusual foods. Rattlesnake, you ask? Bring it on. I’ve also tried yak, goat and, at a restaurant in Beaver, Pennsylvania, called the Wooden Angel, lion that the owner had flown in from Africa for a…
Looking through the open window into the closet of a kitchen, the first thing you see is the top of her black-haired head, and before the front door closes, her smiling face pops up in greeting. Someone else takes you to one of the tables in an adjoining room, but…
Chain gang: No fewer than 36 restaurant chains plan to add Denver links within the next year. With the number of recent local eatery additions and the sizable dining community already in place, something has to give–and I’m betting it ain’t gonna be the big-money corporations. Of the impending arrivals,…
Cement with a side of cabbage. That’s the way most of the world sees German cuisine, the fat, jolly cousin of the food family. We’re talking heavy, heavy, heavy here: potatoes and dumplings and thick, greasy sausages and–ach du lieber!–next thing you know, you’re laying down a foundation for a…
The mold and the beautiful: Last week, during an otherwise wonderful tapas experience in Ranelle’s at 2390 South Downing, I popped a stuffed mushroom in my mouth, only to pop it back out again when I realized it had turned into a flu remedy. Although the waitress kindly took the…
Like the reptile it was named for, the Rattlesnake Grill began making noise long before it struck. The hum started about a year ago when rumors ran rampant that, yes, the Jimmy Schmidt would be opening a new version of his Rattlesnake Club, the tony, very expensive (and therefore much-maligned)…
The ballpark’s in your court: With the opening of Coors Field only nine days away, new restaurants are popping up all over LoDo. Morton’s of Chicago completes its move from the Tivoli to 17th Street and Wynkoop this week with a grand opening March 24, the proceeds of which ($100…
Dad was “in Vietnam”–the polite way my family referred to that whole mess of a war–for three years, so it was only natural that some of the country rubbed off on him. I didn’t realize how much, though, until years later, when I began to recognize that Vietnam had flavored…
Up the creek: It was the first time I’d been served a piece of cake decorated with green rings of mold–and I’m hoping it will be the last. What surprised me wasn’t that it finally happened, but where it happened–La Piazza, at 2710 East Third Avenue in Cherry Creek North…
In the virtual reality of the future, we won’t need to leave our La-Z-Boys to travel (much less venture out to Denver International Airport)–we’ll just insert tapes in our video monitors and play tourist without suffering through the hassles of sore feet, lost luggage and stolen wallets. In the meantime,…
It’s Chiffon: Dozens of victims have come forward with more tales to tell about Westword cover girl Ruth Chiffon von Seeburg-Schausten Prager, better known in these parts as Chiffon (“Would You Buy a Used Restaurant From This Woman?,” February 15). There seem to be quite a few people who loaned…
For years Village Inn has encouraged people to drop on in at Cherry Creek–and no one complains. But let some of the newer, hipper chain restaurants move into the area and all hell breaks loose. Chains rattle other restaurants for two reasons. The first, and most galling, is that the…
Beer today, gone tomorrow: The upscaling of LoDo continues, with a facelift of the venerable–and appropriately named–Terminal Bar now under way. The last time this watering hole at 17th Avenue and Wazee tried something new, owner Nancy Archer–herself an Aussie–succumbed to lower-downtown duenna Dana Crawford’s suggestion that Archer cash in…
It usually starts with the word “ribs.” Maybe someone tickles me there, or a television commercial talks about something sticking to them, or I’m at church and the preacher mentions Adam. No matter how the word gets there, though, once it’s in my brain, it begins turning over like a…
Bust of Denver: It has been brought to my attention that an impostor lurks in some of the town’s better neighborhoods. A glossy publication called Entree bills itself as “The Best of Denver Menus,” but it has nothing to do with Westword’s annual Best of Denver issue, for which I…
The bleached blonde wet her lips, leaned forward and pressed her hand dramatically against the mammoth mammary glands that were on the verge of busting out of her black evening dress like two fat kids escaping an overheated car. “The problem with DIA,” she said, “is that a minority mayor…
Brew send me: Colorado is becoming the “Napa Valley of the beer world.” Or so says the Association of Brewers, a national organization that just happens to be located in Boulder, in close proximity to some of the finest beers being produced in the United States. There are 44 breweries…
Either they’re uptight about wearing pajamas in public, or that salmon was the last friend they had, because the guys behind sushi bars rarely smile. They solemnly wield their knives like sculpting tools, quietly creating works of art and then handing them over like so much dead fish. But then…
At your service: One of the questions I’m asked most frequently (though not always this bluntly) is, “Who the hell do you think you are to review restaurants?” The easy answer is that Westword told me I was the restaurant reviewer. But my background was one of the reasons I…
Good things come in small packages. And truly exceptional things are coming out of a tiny, nine-table restaurant in northwest Denver. Reservations have been a must almost from the moment the clumsily titled Today’s Gourmet Highland’s Garden Cafe opened seven months ago. Its modest size was only part of the…
In the suds: What Coors Brewing Company and Anheuser-Busch each want you to learn on a tour of their breweries is that their product is the tastiest beer made from the finest ingredients by a corporation dedicated to honesty, integrity and whatever other really honorable characteristic they can get the…
