The rules of food reviewing

For as long as I have been doing this job, I have operated with one unbreakable rule: that absent everything else — decor and design and reputation and style and money and privilege and location and buzz — it is a restaurant’s food that matters. Mostly, this rule has been…

Tapping into the former Tap Inn

A warning, via whiteboard, from the staff at the Viking (4888 West Colfax Avenue): YOU NEED TO GET THE HELL OUT OF HERE WHEN: • You run your big fucking mouth because the bar is out of something • You call the bartender dirty names in another language, unaware she…

Our Weekly Bread: Vert Kitchen

The sandwich: Tortilla Española Where to get it: Vert Kitchen (704 South Pearl Street, 303-997-5941, www.vertkitchen.com) What’s on it: potato omelet, aioli, manchego cheese, lettuce and tomato How much: $8 It takes a lot to open a new eatery and even more to offer menu items far from the norm…

Ristras bringing New Mexico to Westminster

Andy Carter and his wife are taking their first shot at a restaurant — and yes, it’s a fast-casual place. Fast-casual New Mexican, actually. Both Carters are natives of New Mexico, and they thought Westminster would be the perfect spot for Ristras Santa Fe Grill, which opened a few weeks…

Wine Cellar coming to Highland

There’s more action at the edge of Highland, the area around Lola/Vita that developers are dying to dub LoHi. The Red Door, the hip store at 2556 15th Street (right at the corner where 15th becomes 29th Avenue), is now closed, its windows covered with brown paper. And written on…

From the longest main street to the biggest burrito

Celebrate the world’s longest main street at 5:30 p.m. on Wednesday, March 11, when Satellite Bar, 308 East Colfax Avenue, hosts the monthly Happy on the Hill social. Satellite will offer drink specials, and CityGrille, located right across the street at 321 East Colfax, will supply the snacks.(Is it too…

And all that Shazz!

I was at the diner. My cell phone rang. It was Laura. “So where are you going to dinner again?” “I already told you.” “Yeah, but I can’t remember.” “Shazz,” I whispered. “What?” “Jesus, don’t make me say it out loud in public.” “Just tell me the name, Jay.” “Shazz,”…

Cafe 13 producing for Golden

Cafe 13 sounds like your classic little cafe in your classic little town, but with Rick Macpherson in the kitchen, it could soon move up to bigger things.Macpherson opened his place in downtown Golden in mid-December, and he’s still tinkering with the menus. For now, Cafe 13 is offering soup…

I dream of Jewish fast-casual

The doctor (or wait — lawyer? investment banker?) runs down the stairs of his office building, his mind on his next appointment. He gets into his car, ignoring phone calls, and zooms off like a drunken race-car driver. The man is very hungry. And very Jewish. He stumbles into his…

The List: Dim sum in Denver

I’ve always been surprised that a city like Denver can support more than one dim sum restaurant. San Francisco? Sure. New York? Absolutely. But dim sum is something special, and this Chinese brunch rarely seems to travel too far outside major metropolitan areas. Most of the time, a medium-sized city…

For ladies only — a Venue wine-tasting tonight

Venue, the new restaurant at 3609 West 32nd Avenue that earned a recent rave from Jason Sheehan, is teaming with Marczyk Fine Foods to host a ladies-only (don’t tell Steve Horner!) wine education tasting from 5:30-7 p.m. today, Tuesday, March 10. The line-up features Venue apps and the “best American…

Lime, Cheeky Monk head for the hills

The Winter Park ski area is actually owned by the city of Denver — and now two familiar Denver eateries have joined the new Village project at the base of the ski hill.Lime finally opened a fourth outpost in Winter Park — and its margaritas seem particularly potent at 9,000…

Say hi to Hi*Rise

The sign in the window of the new spot at 22nd and Larimer street says it all: Hi*Rise, which specializes in hand-crafted bread, will open on March 14. “Seriously.”We don’t know much more, other than the space looks very cool — and we seriously doubt there’s any relation between this…

Zolo mixing a meal with mezcal

For those of you who love mezcal, the agave-based liquor that isn’t tequila, head straight for Zolo Southwestern Grill on Thursday, March 12. The Big Red F restaurant at 2525 Arapahoe Avenue in Boulder will be doing a five-course dinner based on Del Maguey Mezcal, which is produced small-batch and…

Milking It: Frosted Flakes Gold

Frosted Flakes Gold Kellogg’s Rating: Two spoons out of four Cereal description: Amber flakes made of corn, rice and wheat and baked to an ultra-hard consistency. You could practically pick a lock with them. But a mystery remains: Where’s the frosting? I mean, they couldn’t call them Frosted Flakes if…

Prime (rib) time at Dazzle

Today, Dazzle is introducing a new reason to eat at Denver’s great jazz club: prime rib. Not content with offering one of the town’s best happy hours, owner Donald Rossa reports that his chef will be slow-roasting prime rib throughout the day — which means “serious eating” tonight.Dazzle is located…

Another taste of this week’s Cafe Society

Denver Restaurant Week is over, but there are still plenty of good meals and deals out there. Jason Sheehan offers a rundown on the top seven spots to grab a bite to eat on Broadway in The List. A week after his win on Top Chef, Tyler Nemkov finally caught up…

TAG has a target opening date

Troy Guard was cooking again last night, and it felt good. The former Nine75/Zengo chef had joined Jamey Fader as a guest chef for a special dinner at Lola featuring dishes inspired by the flavors of Cabo and the Yucatan. It wasn’t much of a stretch for Guard, who was…

Radek Cerny can now fill your belly at a second place

When I last talked to Radek Cerny, he told me that his new place, Full Belly, would open in February. Well, the chef/owner of L’Atelier was off by only about a week, since his Full Belly will open tomorrow, March 7, at 2779 Iris Avenue in Boulder.According to manager Sally…

The time has come for Sweet Action

Sweet Action, the ice cream shop headed by Samantha Kopicko and Chia Basinger that I wrote about last week in Get Some Sweet Action on Broadway, opens this afternoon at 52 Broadway, in the spot formerly occupied by Fahrenheit Books, where it shares space with Twisted Sol tattoos.While many eateries…